A time for reconnecting.
It has been some time since I have had a real adventure, time, money, ill health have all played their little part in the restriction of me just taking off as I used to. With the school half term holidays looming, we booked our annual week away, this time we headed off into the most Western part of Wales.
We booked a cabin in the hamlet of Gell, which nestled just outside Criccieth in Wales, sitting near to the mighty Snowdon and the wild and rugged hills of the Rhinog’s. Gell is a sleepy little collection of farmhouses around 1 mile outside of the historic town of Criccieth with its history dating back to around the 14th C and overlooked and protected by the imposing castle.
We had set off on Monday morning and began heading into the more rugged and wild landscape that the Western part of Wales offers and is less touristy than other more popular areas, I had planned a route towards the little village of Beddgelert in order to take in some of the local history and stories there, our road twisted and turned around the mighty mountains and took us through quite lanes, spectacular views and amazing lakes.
Beddgelert rested at the foot of mount Snowdon and once out of the car you couldn’t help but feel a little small in your surroundings which some believe derives its name for the 8thC Christian Missionary Celert and not after the hound of Myth Gelert. We were no more than 5 minutes into our wander when the heavens opened and we were treated to a rather monsoon style down, one which become common for our 4 days away. Unfortunately we never quite made it to the 18th C tourist grave and instead quickly headed back to the dryness of the car and a much needed hot chocolate.
It was only a short drive to our cabin, we were delayed slightly from gaining entry into our abode by the shuffling of large static caravans on the sight and were informed there was a rather nice chippy in Criccieth of which we made full use and yes they were very delicious.
Once inside, the cabin was larger than our actual home, with oodles of space for a family of four and adventure dog and once unpacked, we settled into our first night, I have always had a love of Wales the whole countryside is far more accepting of walkers and general outdoors folk, it never feels to busy and there is so many unique and interesting bits of history around every corner. In our cabin we gazed outside at the amazing dark skies filled to the brim with stars.
The morning soon came and with it a sunny start, which was in contrast to the rather strange monsoon downpour that peppered the night time. Today’s foray saw us head firstly into Porthmadog, the closes large town, we parked up in the town and had a browse around the shops, buying the main staples of a week away, beer, pastry filled items and some rather tasty doughnuts and made our way down onto Back Rock sands parking up on the beach and a short walk around.
The beach was long, flat and away from the tide line numerous cars had parked up with families enjoying the walking and playing games, a cave sat at the end of our part and begged to be looked in, unfortunately it didn’t reach too far in and I felt it was little mundane and full of rubbish, its only saving grace was the amazing green and yellow colours the dripping water and rock had created making it appear otherworldly. On our way back to the car a large military cargo plane (possible a C17) flew low and across the water and with a wave to the crowd it took off and over the hills.
We headed back towards our cabin with a brief stop off at Criccieth and a wander around the seafront and up towards the castle and lower beach, the 3 mini beards were all needing a nap by this time and so we headed home for lunch and a brief lull in activities before heading off later that evening for a drive towards Phwelli, we drove around to the outer harbour to the oddly placed holiday park there.
During the night the familiar downpours began again, each more ferocious than the last, but with the dawn breaking through, sun again beckoned us outside, now if like me you have teenagers in the house, getting them up at an appropriate time can sometimes be a challenge in its self, today the children once woken, kindly went back to sleep for another hour, prompting a more vocal call to get dressed. Mrs Beard had identified a woodland not far away from us and this was to be our destination, the ancient oak woodland did not disappoint and despite the rather vertical path upwards seemed to be enjoyed (see separate blog here).
Lunch was needed in order to keep the clans spirits up and so we headed into Harlech for a bite to eat, Mrs Beard as always made a bee line for the local charity shops as myself and adventure dog headed down towards to castle for a look, Harlech castle is one of the finest examples of 14th C architecture and so has been placed as a world heritage site. It wasn’t open for our visit today but would be on the final day here, with Ice-cream in hand we headed back down towards our car and with a plan for a trip into Phwelli later that evening for a meal we had a little rest at the cabin again.
With our last day now here and the inevitable monsoon rain during the evening again behind us, myself and Mrs Beard headed off into Harlech for the castle, I was a little early in my timings so we headed into the local ice cream shop for a brew and a view across Afon Glaslyn and onto Harlech and the inviting Rhinogs. Once open, we headed into the castle and spent around an hour here exploring the buildings and view before heading back to collect the children and our final journey home.
I have always loved Wales more than the Lake District which I feel has become a little over saturated with people in the last few years, Wales still holds those hidden places and secret spots where one can escape the hustle and bustle of the world, I’m always left feeling that I have never had enough time there.
Criccieth isn’t a large place to be, but there is some much going on around you that you’ll never be left bored.
Cost- yes like pretty much everywhere in the UK there are areas or attractions that are expensive, we had planned on the railway and Portmerion but both of these were nearing £60 + for our group and so seemed a little on the high side for us, but there are options for cheaper days, the many castle are often good value, with miles and miles of beaches and the numerous mountains, waterfalls and forests to explore for free there are other options out there to explore.
Stay- I lost count of the many campsites, caravan parks and holiday homes throughout our time there, they all vary in cost and experience so it worth googling to find the best option for you. Me, I would go back in a heartbeat, I had manage to do some short trail runs whilst there and forgot how much I loved being out in the wild weather and darkness.
Travel time- Approximately 3hrs from our home in the Blackcountry, the route was clear and easy to follow, I had purposely extended our time travelling there to take in some of the country side and towns along its many winding roads. There is lots to see and do along the route to Criccieth so add time into your travels to make sure you make the most of it.
